Swinfen Hall, Lichfield, Staffordshire

Isn’t it funny how you plan a city break to do specific things, but, when you arrive, the city takes you by the hand and leads you “a merry wander”. Our visit to Lichfield is a classic example.

England History Hotel Luxury Staffordshire UK

Editor , 9th September 2022 / 853

Our original plan was to visit Staffordshire and walk the canal paths in the area. Friends had visited Lichfield and had recommended the city as being a good place to base our explorations. We found Swinfen Hall and, after reading about its history, and looking over the beautiful website, we booked ourselves in to The Games Room, Swinfen Hall’s one bedroom apartment. It sounded different, and we like quirky.

The Hall was built back in 1757 by Samuel Swynfen to a design by architect Benjamin Wyatt (father of James Wyatt) and remained the home of the Swinfen and Swinfen Broun families for almost two hundred years. It’s changed hands a few times since then and the current owner has aspirations for some considerable development: lakeside lodges, a spa – all very exciting.

Lichfield is just north of Birmingham. Arriving early, we popped into the Heart Of The Country Shopping Village next door, a collection of converted 19th century farm buildings which is now home to an eclectic mix of indie shops and boutiques, a woodland walk and fairy woods – it all began as a single country store in 1985 and has developed into quite a stylish enclave of cool businesses.

We were pleasantly surprised to meet a lady who, with her husband, owns the South African themed ‘Fields Biltong Shack’. We had featured the couple when they ran The Meating Place* in Cardiff several years earlier. There was much reminiscing and we all agreed it was indeed a very small world.

Another notable little gem there was a gallery run by a very lovely lady (I promise I’ll find her name and update). She has an excellent eye, and we really liked the work on sale. If you like art, you should certainly pop in if you’re passing.

After an enjoyable look around it was time to check in. As we tootled up the drive, Swinfen Hall made her presence felt. Set in over 120 acres of beautiful Staffordshire countryside, the brickwork of this stylish 18^th Century mansion house glowed in the afternoon sun.

We were made every welcome and shown to our apartment at the bottom of the house. The warren-esque walk through several rooms, doorways and down a stairway only added to the intrigue.

On opening the door, we were confronted by a modern, spacious (1,200 square feet) self-contained apartment space complete with a huge golf simulator, gym equipment, an arcade game, a full-size snooker/pool table, a serious telescope and a fully stocked bar complete with fridges and ice maker. And we mustn’t forget the 75-inch television. It felt like the ultimate man cave. We were not in any way disappointed. This was all topped off nicely with a beautiful bedroom (queen size bed with goose down duvets and Egyptian cotton sheets), and bathroom area complete with rain shower.

After soaking up the experience, we headed upstairs to the main bar and enjoyed a few vodkas and tonics out on the rear veranda overlooking the fountains and deer park and lake beyond. It was as close to idyllic as one could imagine. No wonder the staff seemed so happy and laid back. I couldn’t imagine a more relaxing place to work.

That evening we decided to stay close to the hotel and chose to have a romantic meal for two in the apartment. “No problem!” was the reply to our request, and dinner lived up to our expectations – beautifully prepared and served with the smiles we had already grown accustomed to.

The following day we headed into Lichfield and enjoyed a guided tour which is well worth doing. Lichfield is packed with history, and it has some pretty amazing stories to tell.

Sue Pettitt, above, and her brilliant Boomers – a real Lichfield gem.

Fancying a cuppa, we stopped off at a very cool place called Boomers which is run by the lovely Sue Pettitt – 1940s theme on the ground floor, ‘60s theme on the first floor. Great coffee, fab service and Sue is an absolute mine of information about Lichfield. Boomers certainly qualifies as a Lichfield gem.

Just around the corner is a family home that inspired the literary giant Samuel Johnson. Best known for his Dictionary of the English Language, Samuel Johnson spent the first twenty-seven years of his life in this atmospheric Grade I listed trader’s townhouse which is now a museum. I’ve read his quotations on many occasions, so this was a real treat to find out more about the man with the aid of the very charming and eloquent curator.

Being a city, we were determined to visit Lichfield Cathedral, the only medieval English Cathedral with three spires, and were absolutely blown away by it. It really is quite stunning. The exterior carving reminded me of Barcelona’s famous La Sagrada Família. Yes, it’s that impressive.

Our last history splurge of the day was a visit to Erasmus Darwin House, the former home of the English poet and physician Erasmus Darwin, grandfather of naturalist Charles Darwin. The house is a Grade I listed (there are quite a few in Lichfield) and is now a writer’s house museum commemorating Erasmus Darwin’s life. Whatever was in the Darwin gene pool, it was pretty special. This was a man way ahead of his time. You’d be forgiven for thinking he was a lot more interesting than his grandson. He was to us anyway.

Later in the day, we “took tea” overlooking the Minster Pool and enjoyed a lovely hour-long stroll through the rather beautiful Beacon Park before returning to Swinfen Hall for drinks on the veranda – well, it had to be done.

After a good night’s sleep and an excellent breakfast, our homeward journey was punctuated by a visit to the National Memorial Arboretum. A place we had longed to visit having seen it many times on television. It’s much bigger than you imagine so we opted for a guided tour and land train ride which proved incredibly informative. With many memorials celebrating the lives of tens of thousands of people across all walks of life, it was very emotional in places, and lived up to our expectations. We also enjoyed a cooked lunch there which took us right back to the school dinners of our youth. All in all, a very enjoyable experience.

Swinfen Hall is a class act. The staff are brilliant. We had a wonderful time there. Yes, you can visit and stay in one of its nineteen beautiful rooms but, if you live locally, it’s also a great place to hold events, a wedding reception or perhaps a corporate dinner. It can deliver on every level, and we think that’s what makes it so special. We’re excited to see how it develops and we’ll most certainly return (we never did explore those canal paths).

Samuel Johnson once said, “The use of travelling is to regulate imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are.” He wasn’t far wrong. If you’re visiting Staffordshire, this is the place to stay. But don’t take our word for it.